About

Haaaa, the mighty about page. Since you’re here, I guess you want to know a little more about me. My name is Toon, I live in Belgium and I was born in 1990! In July 2012, I graduated as industrial engineer in electronics. Outside of Belgium, industrial engineer isn’t really known, so never mind that.

Ever since I was a little boy, I was fascinated by the wonders of technology. I took things apart, I tried to make things (without much success) and started my career in high school. In Belgium we have mostly fixed curricula, so I chose to go the maths and sciences way (after making the mistake of trying Latin first – but you never know it helped in a way).

After that, I started at Group T Engineering College in Leuven and 4 years later I can introduce myself as engineer. In my spare time I tinker with electronics (as you might have noticed from the posts here), and I try to join the monthly RobotMC meeting.

What does Phalox mean?

In need of a new nickname/internet alias, I started looking for something. At GroupT, we named all of our servers after characters from Asterix & Obelix. So, I stuck with Greek god names. Since there are so many options, I decided to choose something that started with a P (the first letter of my last name). Somehow I ended up with Pollux. After some more iterations of shifting letters around, I ended up with Phalox (somehow the Phalanx military formation got mixed into the name).

So, no deep meaning. Just some word-play!

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11 Comments

  1. Safak Agustoslu

     /  October 26, 2014

    Hi. I am interesting dmx 3ch rec. but I can’t convert hex file. PLease help me. Usually I am writing program with picbasicpro. Now your program asm. program. how can I build this. I downloaded mplab software. But give to me more error. I think 12lf1822.lib can’t see. Please share with me your experience. I writen dmx sender with pbp it is working good. But I can’t write receiver program. I think pbp commands take a very long time. start pulse sometimes lost. I want to try your program. Please help. Thanks

    Reply
  2. Hello Phalox/Toon,

    I learned your name via the site of Mikey (https://captain-slow.dk/2016/05/22/replacing-the-itead-sonoff-firmware/) and was hoping you might be able/are willing to help me.

    I have an issue concerning a Sonoff T1 EU. I started a topic at the Itead Studio forum; https://itead.freshdesk.com/support/discussions/topics/11000018170, and was wondering if you could use your expertise to help me if you are interested.

    I thank you upfront for your response.

    Met vriendelijke groet,
    Henry

    Reply
    • admin

       /  February 23, 2018

      Hey Henry,

      Could you tell me a bit more what you’re trying to do? I’m not sure I fully understand. It seems you need the wifi modules, but your main issue is the 2 relay peripherals?

      Reply
  3. Hi Toon,

    A year ago I bougth myself a Motor Clockwise/Anticlockwise Running WiFi Wireless Switch Model: IM160601001 (https://www.itead.cc/motor-reversing-wifi-wireless-switch.html). To operate a roller shutter. It works great. Then I wanted to order more of these modules and found out it has been terminated. Since then I’m trying to find a solution for the rest of my shutters.

    I think the Sonoff T1 EU: 2 Gang WiFi RF Smart Wall Touch Light Switch (https://www.itead.cc/sonoff-t1-eu.html) might be a solution. It has to switches, the only things is that for my situation only 1 switch is allowed to have power. If I push 1 the shutter will open. The motor of the shutter has an adjustable limiter. As soon as the limit is reached the motor will switch to the second wire (for closing).

    So far so good. If I then push switch 2, to close the shutter, the power has to go to 2 and 1 isn’t allowed to have any power. So the issue is that always only 1 of the 2 switches is allowed to have power. In the standard version you can switch on 2 lights simultaneously.

    I would like to “tell” this device that it always has to switch power from 1 tot 2 and vice versa.

    I hope it makes any sense to you. Otherwise it migth be better to explain it in Dutch maybe.

    Reply
    • admin

       /  February 25, 2018

      I understand. You’re “abusing” the light switch (which has 2 relays inside) for the shutters.

      The best solution I could see, is to write your own firmware. I don’t think Itead releases their firmware, but you could ask them. Are you using specific functionality from their firmware?

      Sorry for the delay. busy week πŸ™‚

      Reply
  4. Did you receive last nights message?

    Reply
  5. No problem. I wasn’t being impatient ;-). As you might already understood we live in The Netherlands. But at the moment we’re on vacation in Germany. Last week Monday we were connected to the internet. Unfortunately unsuccessfully. Finally on Wednesday we could use the internet. I had my doubts and wasn’t sure if everything came through in a correct way. Now I’m quite confident that the connection is reliable.

    That’s correct, I would like to abuse the light switch. Manually it already could work right now I think. By manually I mean switching off one relay before switching on the other. But this won’t work in practice, this will go wrong.

    So, it would be nice if there could be created some firmware which “tells” this device always to switch off one relay before switching on the other. And in addition to this, in my most perfect world, it would be possible to switch off both relays simultaneously as well. In the first “step” the shutters can be fully opened or fully closed. With “step” 2 it would be possible to stop the closing/opening at any giving moment.

    With the Motor Clockwise/Anticlockwise Running WiFi Wireless Switch Model: IM160601001 I’m using at the moment I do this using the Sonoff Basic WiFi Wireless Switch (https://www.itead.cc/smart-home/sonoff-wifi-wireless-switch.html). This means the power is cut off and the shutter stops opening/closing at that point. After reinstalling the power by switching it on again the Motor Clockwise/Anticlockwise Running WiFi Wireless Switch Model: IM160601001 of course first have to reconnect to the internet. It’s a bit of a hassle, but functional. These two options combined in the Sonoff T1 EU: 2 Gang WiFi RF Smart Wall Touch Light Switch would rock my world ;-).

    I opened a ticket at Itead. And I guess for someone with expertise in this field it won’t even be that difficult to accomplish. But if Itead won’t do it I need some brave engineer to help me ;-).

    Reply
  6. I asked iTead as well. This is what they replied:

    “When using gang 1 the power to gang 2 should automatically be cut off. And when using gang 2 the power to gang 1 should automatically be cut off as well of course
    It is possible if you use scene function.

    For cut off both 1 and 2,also can use scene function.
    It need Internet when use scene function.”

    This would be great of course. The problem only is, I don’t understand a thing of this “scene”.

    Reply
  7. According to me this is not a reliable solution. This β€œscene” needs active internet. In case of failing internet it could happen that, when operated manually, both switches will have power, resulting in destruction of the motor of my shutter. I would prefer a solution in changing the firmware which is according to me much more reliable.

    Reply
    • admin

       /  March 3, 2018

      I’d agree πŸ™‚ I don’t really like to rely on their solutions. What are you currently using to control your device? One of their apps? Or a popular protocol?

      There’s quite a lot out there to make custom firmware. my sonoff is currently about 1000km away from me, so I’m not much help πŸ™‚

      Reply
  8. At the moment I’m controlling the Motor Clockwise/Anticlockwise Running WiFi Wireless Switch Model: IM160601001 (https://www.itead.cc/motor-reversing-wifi-wireless-switch.html) with eWeLink.

    It works great. It’s 250 km away from me and every morning at 9 am it’s opened and at 7 pm closed again. And I can open/close at any giving moment.

    Now I need a device to control the remaining shutters.

    Reply

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